Atmospheric Mexico City

Prepare yourself—gushing ahead.

Usually, the weather doesn’t make for a titillating conversation. That is, unless there’s a hailstorm, incoming tsunami, or vicious outbreak of tumbleweeds.

But I’m going to talk about Mexico City’s weather. Trust me, it’s worth raving about.

[Obligatory disclaimer: If you’re one who seeks out tropical beaches with heat so strong it makes your arm hairs crackle, you may find yourself underwhelmed by what follows.]

Many people think of Mexico City as being a hot place. I did too before I arrived. Something about its proximity to the equator (relatively) and…I don’t know…the general lack of awareness we have in the U.S. about these things.

Now, I knew the altitude would make it cooler (the city’s at an eye-watering 7,382 ft—over 2,000 ft above Denver), but that knowledge didn’t prompt me to bring more than two long-sleeved tops.

And let me tell you, Mexico City gets chilly in the winter. (Not Arctic cold—stop smirking—but cool for a country also rife with year-round 90˚-plus areas.) After two days of cuddling a space heater, I was shopping for sweaters. The nights regularly hit the low 40s˚F (4–6˚C) when I arrived in February.

But the nights are not the main focus of my gushing here. It’s the days. Oh, the days. Starting around March, the sun’s rising in the eastern sky gradually raises the daily high to around 75˚F (23˚C). Some days are especially sunny, bringing the high to closer to 80˚F, some are cloudier, keeping to a cozy 65˚F. In other words, like perpetual spring. And in the dry season past the coldest bit of winter, it’s like this every—single—day. The air is crisp during this time as well.

Come April, the rainy season begins. In effect, this means the beautiful weather is punctuated by a thunderstorm that rolls in daily around 5pm. Sometimes it passes by the city with a wave and you only get a bit sprinkled on while heading home, and sometimes it turns into an all-out, quick-shut-the-windows-before-we-blow-away, blasting thunderstorm. The timing is incredibly consistent. Clearly, this can be a hassle, especially for vendors, laborers, and, you know, outdoor events, but at least it’s predictable. You know about what time the sky will begin to darken a bit, and the backdrop of crackling excitement will begin.

This pattern holds on throughout the summer. This year (and I’m told this is common), around August and into September, the sun took a bit of a vacation from the city. We went days without much cheerfulness of a solar nature. It seemed like the frequency of rain picked up too. Neighborhood coworking sessions became centered around monsoon-proof options. Interestingly, this coincided with a bit of a stressful period in my own life (hence why I have not written here in a while). But that’s over now.

Change is a beautiful thing. From my vantage point in early October, I’m watching the rainy season finally turn tail and slink away. The sunshine has returned, and along with it a bit higher temperatures (it broke 80˚F yesterday). At the same time though, we’re getting hints of cooler months to come: the mornings have grown chilly again, and the nights flirt with the crispness inherent to fall. Festive fall decor is showing up around town.

All this stunningly comfortable weather (downpours notwithstanding) makes tapping into Mexico City’s amazing café culture incredibly enjoyable. With the city’s extensive network of streetside cafes, I find I’m “outside” more often than not. Cool, gentle breezes ripple through green branches overhead that filter the warm sunshine, and sparrows hop along the pavement looking for snacks. And where I’m sitting now, there’s a fountain misting the lilies and others planted nearby. Traffic rolls by continually to my left. It’s wonderful.

The sheer variety of cafes and coffee shops here is almost overwhelming. It’s hard to become a regular at one because there are so many others to try. And this variety makes choosing one based on the day’s weather, or needed space, or, say, the coffee-to-cerveza ratio, incredibly easy.

For example, you could pick a spot completely in the open air, and take in the surroundings while you chat.

Looks like a downpour soon? No problem, find a cozy-slash-elegant spot that’s covered but still near some open windows so you get all the breezes.

Don’t feel like working alone? Sidle up to your favorite literary hero.

Just don’t expect them to follow you to the balcony.

Go for the decor.

And the food. And questionable news from home (see Cuomo cameo)

If the opportunity presents, buy a flower.

Coffee shops here are enjoyable at all times of day, especially at Nativo Tecuicanime in Roma Norte, where you can combine dinner with special events like concerts and comedy hours.

Come in for the atmosphere and stay for the evening.

And—my favorite—find a place with STANDING DESKS. Yessssss.

Also, being so in touch with the surrounding world means it’s easy to witness things that liven up the day. After all, what’s the point of leaving your home culture if you don’t get to be surprised by the sudden appearance of street musicians outside your window.

…or festive hordes of balloons bobbing in the breeze…

…or an afternoon music lesson…

….or performers working the crowd—er—traffic at red lights.

You can also take a walk in the rain before settling into a streetside café, like on this main street of Toluca, just outside Mexico City.

You really could spend years visiting ALL THE PLACES in this city. I’m grateful to have a chance to enjoy even a few of them.