Bayside: Dauphin Island, AL

(This is Part 2 of my travels around Mobile, Alabama, U.S.A. For Part 1, see here!)

Dauphin Island is an elegant strip of white-sand beach that’s positioned like a mustache off the south coast of Mobile. A short bridge crossing gives it just enough of an out-of-town feel. There’s a lot packed into the area, including a wildlife sanctuary, a historically significant military site, and spacious beaches poking the open waters.

Nature Preserve

For a fresh-air start to the day, we rolled into the island’s Audubon Bird Sanctuary just after noon. The entrance to the 137-acre park was slightly hidden amongst towering pine trees and palm fronds shuffling in the breeze. As we started down one of the park’s National Recreational Trails, sunlight pierced the haze of sticky moisture in the air that coated everything. This area is a common stopover point for migrating birds and provides shelter for butterflies, fish, and hosts of pink wildflowers. Apparently, alligators are known to chill in the marshes lining all trails; signs are posted everywhere noting that if you get eaten, at least you’d been warned.

Walk far enough, and the trail opens out to a serene lake, where you are invited to learn about the assortment of creatures making their homes in the area.

A bit of wandering brings you to the edge of the bay, where lie fascinating signs of past hurricane events—boardwalks elegantly smothered in sand dunes, and pieces of driftwood flung suspiciously far from the water’s edge.

Fort Gaines

Did you know there is a list called the Eleven Most Endangered Historic Sites in America? There is indeed (note to self), and one of them is Fort Gaines, a military outpost of Civil War fame situated at the easternmost point of the island. The historic fort is open for visitors to trawl its grounds, reflecting on the Battle of Mobile and its impact on the shift of the war towards the Union. The Union army was led by Admiral Farragut (of “Damn the torpedoes—full speed ahead!” fame), a man whose brashness successfully got him through what should have been a no-win situation: the Confederate army he was looking to accost in Mobile had just sunk another ironclad ship and was after his blood as well. But he blazed ahead—he sounds like a blast, literally—and captured Mobile Bay, giving quite a few points to the Union army.

Dauphin Island Beach

Dauphin Island’s shorelines draw visitors in perpetuity, and for good reason. They seemingly stretch for miles, their sandy dunes undulating gracefully amidst clouds of seagulls and tufts of grasses. To the west of the island, a visitor can ascend one of these dunes and simultaneously gaze on Mobile Bay and the Gulf of Mexico. I’m all for being in two places at once, so this was one of my favorite features.

As we meandered through the waves, a storm cloud formed on the horizon, threatening to bring another of Mobile’s famous afternoon thundershowers. Comfortably windblown and squinty, we headed back down the island towards Mobile.

Fairhope

Lastly, we traversed the causeway to visit the town of Fairhope, a bougie resort community on the opposite side of the bay. Sunsets there promised to be spectacular.

(Thanks, Kara for humoring my bleating of ONE MORE THING before we headed home!)

As the sun drooped towards the horizon, we explored one long dock where were stationed all flavors of vacationer yacht. Groups of fellow sea-gazers milled about the structure, waiting for the dimming light. Waterbirds swooped and dove in and out of the water, looking for snacks. This enterprising pelican decided to allow the humans to work for it.

Others, like this heron, preferred to shoot the breeze with fellow fishermen and bask in the late-evening calmness.

I could have spent quite a few more days in Mobile. However, I left with a better sense of the impact the water—in all its forms—can have on the people and land it touches.