They say places that value pets seem friendlier, warmer … softer, even. I’m not sure how scientific that is, but it sure seems true of Mexico City. You can’t walk a block here without meeting someone strolling leisurely with their cochorro (an affectionate term for a pet dog―think “pooch”). Cats are popular too, and I’ve even seen some birds on shoulders, but dogs are definitely tops.
Everyone seems to make way for these canines: stepping aside as they pass, giving them extra time to cross the street, pretending not to notice the warm presents they leave for their human attendants to scoop up.
They kind of go everywhere.
New to town? The head of the welcoming committee is here for you.
Cafés seem to embrace these four-legged citizens with open arms. A friendly fido crouched under their owner’s table is a common sight. Sometimes they’re leashed, sometimes not. Sometimes they yelp at a passing phantom and everyone turns for a minute, then goes back to their enchiladas.
My favorite is when a pair of dogs, joint-leashed, is led past another that’s sitting at one of these spots. The sitting dog will leap up excitedly as the walking dogs circle him frantically like they’ve found a best friend. Often the poor sitting dog, his hopes now up high, will attempt to follow the pair, only to be tugged back to the pavement by his leash that’s lassoed around the café chair.
Heading home from the store the other day, I encountered a scene that typifies this affection for animals. I spied an assortment of people clumped on the sidewalk, staring and pointing at nearby tree. I slowed, curious what was happening on this random Tuesday.
Then I heard the indignant arrrrrrrllll of a creature stuck impressively high up in the branches. It was a cat, a young one, who looked like he’d gotten more than he’d bargained for on this day’s adventure. Just then a truck showed up with three decked-out firefighters.
Over an excruciating twenty minutes (I was enthralled and my groceries weren’t that heavy), they proceeded to summit an adjacent rooftop, separate entire tree branches from where they’d been that morning, and grasp the high-altitude interloper before lowering him, wriggling, down to the pavement.
What’s more about dogs and CDMX is the sheer … variety in breeds of dogs you see scampering around everywhere. I think I’ve witnessed more in the last year than I have ever. Sometimes this city feels like a veritable fashion show of purebreds and their knockoffs.
Let me introduce you to this magnificent creature (below).
This is my friend’s Xoloitzcuintil (or Xolo for short). One of Mexico’s most famous native sons, this breed has been in the Americas for a least 3,000 years. Many say they accompanied the first humans’ crossing of the Bering Strait; they were almost certainly described by Columbus when he arrived. Their name comes from the Aztec god of fire and lightning, but interestingly, they’re calm in personality. The story goes that they’re great for home protection (method: barking) but don’t expect them to actually attack an intruder.
Animals in CDMX truly make their homes everywhere. This cat seemed perfectly comfortable in the middle of one of the busiest avenidas of one of the city’s largest indoor markets. At first glance, it might be tempting to feel sorry for this guy. Butwith the huge culture of caring for animals here (and his obvious comfort level despite the surroundings) he probably lives better than his counterparts in other countries.
And oh, did you know CDMX is packed full of black squirrels?
This is a Mexican fox squirrel. They’re spread out over the Sierra Madre Occidental mountain range in northern Mexico all the way up to southeastern Arizona. CDMX may be south of that, but they’re no strangers to acorn harvesting in the numerous lush parks in the center of the city. I can also personally attest that they peek in your windows early in the morning before you’re ready for visitors, and just might make you jump a little. That’s what I hear anyway, completely second-hand.
Mexico City is almost making me a dog person. To therefore rebalance the scales of the universe, I leave you with a photo of my Laverne.
CHLOE GOES 